Festa de Nossa Senhora da Piedade: Inside The Incredible Caniçal Boat Festival
Every September, something very special happens in the fishing town of Caniçal on Madeira’s east coast. Fishing boats fill with hundreds of people and head out into the Atlantic!
One boat carries a statue of Nossa Senhora da Piedade, while dozens of others follow behind in a huge procession.
I got to experience this festival on my very first visit to Madeira, and I still think about it to this day! When I joined one of the festival boats, the beers were flowing and loud music was blasting.
Coming from Wales, where we have nothing similar to compare it to, it was one of the most surreal – and memorable – experiences from my 6+ months in Madeira.
It’s something that I rarely see mentioned in Madeira travel guides, but one of the best things to do in Madeira in September! So, this post is dedicated to the Festa de Nossa Senhora da Piedade, how you can join, and what to expect.
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What Is the Festa de Nossa Senhora da Piedade?
The Festa de Nossa Senhora da Piedade is an annual religious festival held in the fishing town of Caniçal. It celebrates Nossa Senhora da Piedade (Our Lady of Piety).
Local tradition traces the devotion back to fishermen who were caught in danger at sea. They reportedly promised to build a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary if they made it safely back to land.
In the 17th century, the Chapel of Our Lady of Mercy was subsequently built on a hill overlooking the ocean east of Caniçal. It’s right above Prainha Beach, a small black-sand cove that I personally love to visit.
Then came the annual tradition, in which ‘the Lady of the Fishermen’ is honoured every September with a procession of fishing boats.
What Happens During the Festival?
On Saturday afternoon, a procession of boats leaves Caniçal and heads towards the hilltop chapel. People collect the image of Nossa Senhora da Piedade before bringing her back to Caniçal by boat, where she spends the night in the parish church.
Then, after mass on Sunday, the journey is reversed and she is returned to the hilltop chapel – this is the procession that I joined!
Here’s the thing. While some boats are quiet and serious, others are more focused on celebration.
My boat found a middle ground – with music, swimming and free sandwiches – but some boats were pounding with music and people jumping up and down to the beat.
When Is the Caniçal Boat Festival?
The Festa de Nossa Senhora da Piedade takes place on the third weekend of September.
The exact dates change each year, so I really recommend speaking to locals to ask when it’s happening and at what time the procession starts! You could ask your hotel manager or go to Caniçal or Machico a few days before the event to ask around.
I arrived at Caniçal port on Sunday at 1pm sharp to board a fishing boat. There’s a procession happening on both Saturday and Sunday.
My Experience Joining the Caniçal Boat Festival
I’ll be honest, I didn’t really know what I was getting myself into when I joined the festival.
I’d already spent plenty of time exploring Madeira’s east coast, but this was completely different from anything else I’d experienced on the island.
Along with other people from the Remote East Coasters, we boarded one of Caniçal’s large industrial fishing boats and headed out to sea with the procession.
There was loud music blasting from our boat. But it was mostly family-friendly. On other boats, the music was much louder and intense.
Groups of teenagers and young adults were jumping around and dancing. People had beers in their hands. It was a proper party!
Of course, the religious side of the festival is very real. The main purpose of the procession is to return the image of Nossa Senhora da Piedade to its chapel.
But alongside that is this huge communal celebration. And that’s what made it so memorable for me.
We spent several hours at sea on the fishing boat, and we got to see the São Lourenço peninsula! No dolphins in sight, but we did all jump into the ocean for a swim.
Is the Festival Just for Locals?
The Festa de Nossa Senhora da Piedade is a local tradition first and foremost. People aren’t getting on the fishing boats because somebody has packaged the experience into a Madeira excursion. They’re taking part in an event that matters to the community.
That doesn’t mean visitors can’t experience it. I did. But please do approach it as something you’re being allowed to participate in rather than an attraction being performed for you.
Be respectful of the religious procession, follow any instructions from the boat crew and remember that the party atmosphere on some boats is only one side of a much older tradition! And enjoy the day!
Which Boat Should You Join?
When you arrive at the port, the fishing boats are lined up side by side. They quickly fill up, with people climbing over the side of the boat to reach their intended vessel.
I’d recommend watching for a little bit before you board. Some boats are louder than others. You’ll get a sense for the crowd as they board.
What Is the Boat Trip Like?
The procession is free to attend, not ticketed, and boats even serve free food like sandwiches. You will need to pay for drinks onboard.
You may be at sea for 3–4+ hours.
I’d bring:
- Sun protection
- Water
- Swimming costume (wear underneath your clothes)
- A towel
- A light layer
- Sensible shoes with grip – you’ll need to climb wooden ladders
- Seasickness medication if you know you’re susceptible
- A waterproof layer if the forecast is changeable
The boats used in the procession include working fishing vessels, so don’t expect the facilities or comfort you’d get on a dedicated tourist catamaran. There’s usually just one or two shared toilets.
What To Do After the Caniçal Fishing Boat Festival
After the festival, there are so many stalls in Caniçal serving Portuguese streetfood. I was hungry after the afternoon on the boat, so I grabbed a huge portion of grilled chicken and ate it on some benches along the promenade.
On the way home, I also stopped by Praia da Ribeira de Natal, a quiet swim spot with a bar. The bar was the busiest I’ve ever seen it, so if you fancy a few drinks, it’s a good spot.
You could also head by car to Machico for the sandy beach or a sunset hike – check out my guide to the best things to do in Machico for your options.
I’d personally do the zig-zag hike, a short and easy trail that gives you an epic view of the bay at night.
Let me know if you attend the Caniçal fishing boat festival, and what your experience is like! I’d love to hear from you.
