Caminho das Voltas to Curral das Freiras: How to Do The Nun’s Valley Hike
The first hike I ever did in Madeira was the Caminho das Voltas to Curral das Freiras, also known as the Valley of the Nun’s hike.
I’ve done 22+ of the best hikes in Madeira since, but it’s still one of the first hikes I recommend – especially if you’re going hiking in Madeira without a car.
It’s right in the middle of the island, above Curral das Freiras (Nun’s Valley), with views of towering mountains and winding valley roads.
And better yet, it’s just a 30-minute bus ride from Funchal and almost completely downhill. Here’s how you can do it too…
First things First, Is The Nun’s Valley Hike Worth It?
The Caminho das Voltas hike from Eira Do Serrado viewpoint is incredible if you want mountain views with very little effort.
Some people choose to hike up and down the zig-zag path, but like most people, I did it completely downhill.
The hike is completely accessible by public transport. The beginning of the hike at the Eira Do Serrado viewpoint is a 30–40-minute bus ride from Funchal.
Once you’ve hiked down the Caminho das Voltas to Curral das Freiras, you can visit the village’s restaurants and museum before taking the same bus back to the city.
Another bonus: the path is well-maintained, with no scary drop-offs. You’ll just need plenty of sun protection, as it’s open to the elements.
Difficulty
My recommendation is to do the Nun’s Valley hike downhill. The downhill hike is 3 kilometres long and takes about 1.5–2 hours.
There’s almost no incline, so really the difficulty depends on how your knees and joints handle downhill hiking.
The path is a combination of cobblestone, dirt and gravel. It’s very steep in areas, so a hiking pole is useful if you struggle to balance going downhill.
There are a couple of benches partway down the hike where you can rest.
It’s a different story if you decide to hike down and up the Caminho das Voltas. You’ll face 550+ metres of elevation gain and it’ll take you more like 3–4 hours. You’ve been warned!
How to Get To Eira Do Serrado (the Start of the Hike)
- By bus: Take the no. 81 bus (for Curral das Freiras) from the bus station next to the Funchal cable car station. Here is the no. 81 bus timetable; for Eira Do Serrado, you need to look at the routes marked B, C or E. The bus takes around 30–40 minutes.
- By car: Park at the Eira Do Serrado hotel. If it’s full, you’re out of luck. That’s why I recommend doing the hike by bus.
The bus to Eira Do Serrado and the Valley of the Nuns can be busy. The earlier your departure, the better your chances of getting a seat.
How to Get Back to Funchal From Curral das Freiras
The Caminho Das Voltas hike from Eira Do Serrado ends in the Valley of the Nuns. You can take the same bus (no. 81) back to Funchal.
It doesn’t matter whether it stops at Eira Do Serrado or not, as you won’t be getting off there again.
What to Expect on the Caminho das Voltas to Curral das Freiras
Map
The AllTrails map includes the out-and-back route. If you’re hiking downhill only, like me, you’ll stop hiking at Curral Das Freiras. Don’t go back up the same path – just take the bus!
My Experience Hiking the Caminho das Voltas to Curral das Freiras
Before I did the Caminho das Voltas to Curral das Freiras, I made sure that the weather was looking clear and sunny. Cloud cover can really affect the views from the Eira do Serrado viewpoint.
My friend, Jess, and I walked to the bus stop next to the cable car station together at around 10am. After we’d paid and boarded, the bus was nearly full despite our early start.
It’s a winding mountain road to Nun’s Valley, a journey that had us shutting our eyes at some points. Scenic, if you can manage to keep them open!
Once we reached the Eira do Serrado viewpoint, we breathed a sigh of relief. The views were clear. Before doing anything else, we walked along to the various viewpoints over the valley.
Honestly, I think we spent over 20 minutes at the viewpoints alone. They’re that good. You can see the village itself, cradled by mountains.
Here’s a fun fact. The Valley of the Nuns was founded by nuns who fled the coast to avoid the risk from pirates. That’s where the name comes from.
The winding mountain roads also make for some seriously impressive aerial views.
Back at the Eira do Serrado hotel, we used the toilets (a small fee is required) and got distracted by the coffee shop.
It’s one of the best cafés in Madeira for views; just look at the photos I took below. (Sorry, I couldn’t wait to start the coffee!)
After coffee, we headed around the back of the hotel to the Caminho das Voltas hiking path. It begins behind the sign for ‘Eira do Serrado altitude 1,094 metres’.
Originally, it’s a wide, paved path, but it soon turns to cobblestone, dirt and rocks. It snakes down the mountainside in a zig-zag shape, so it’s quite steep, but almost impossible to get lost.
The best part is you have views of the Valley of the Nuns the whole hike. The bad news, there’s no shelter from the sun or wind.
About halfway down, there’s a picnic area with makeshift wooden benches where we stopped to eat snacks and take more photos.
After about 1 hour and 20 minutes of walking, we reached the Valley of the Nuns. After hiking downhill for so long, the small hill on the road to the village felt like a shock to the system, but in reality, it’s just a few minutes.
Once we arrived in the village, we picked a restaurant at random after spotting its terrace overlooking the mountains. Sabores do Curral ended up being a great choice – delicious fish and potatoes!
Afterwards, we wandered around the village itself, where there’s a small museum and a graveyard with some of the best views I’ve seen.
You can look back up to the hotel, where you started your hike, at the top of the cliff behind the church.
Tips for the Valley of The Nuns Hike
- Plenty of sun and wind protection is a must, as the hiking path does not have any shelter.
- Visit when the conditions and clear and sunny, as cloud cover can affect the views. The path is steep in sections, so after rain it may be slippery.
- Get the earliest bus possible to get a seat. It’s a popular bus route.
Alternatives to The Caminho das Voltas to Valley of the Nuns
- Vereda dos Balcões (PR11): Another easy hike with epic mountain views, just 3 kilometres long. It’s in Ribeiro Frio, which is also accessible by bus from Funchal (SIGA buses 56, 103 or 138).
- Levada dos Tornos: Another hike you can do by bus from Funchal, this time with views of the city and coast, ending at Monte Palace.
- Bica de Cana: A four-kilometre trail with beautiful mountain views and waterfalls spilling overhead, but you’ll need a car to get there.
FAQs
There are paid toilets at the Eira Do Serrado hotel at the beginning of the Caminho das Voltas hike. They are located at the back of the souvenir shops. There are no toilets along the trail, but there are toilets at the restaurants in the Valley of the Nuns at the end of the hike.
It takes 1.5–2 hours to hike to Nun’s Valley from Eira Do Serrado.
