Levada das Rabaças Hike Guide: A Small Walk With Big Mountain Views

If you’ve already been exploring Madeira on foot, you’ll probably know that Encumeada is a mountain pass that marks the start of several formidable hikes with big mountain views. What many people don’t realise is that it’s also the starting point for Levada das Rabaças, a shorter, easier levada walk that delivers much of the same scenery for far less effort.

The Levada das Rabaças hike is quite special because it’s not very well known, and therefore remains nice and quiet. I only found it after completing more than 18 trails across the island, and it took a bit of searching.

I had actually walked the very beginning of the levada while doing the PR17 trail towards Bica de Cana, so it stayed in the back of my mind. I remember thinking at the time, “I wonder where the rest of the levada goes”.

In this blog post, I’ll explain what to expect on the Levada das Rabaças walk (including difficulty, trail features and views), how to get there, and how it compares with similar walks. Overall, it’s one of the best hikes in Madeira if you’re looking for a relatively flat trail with big mountain views.

Is This Hike Worth Doing?

Levada das Rabaças starts at the Encumeada mountain pass, high above the valley of São Vicente. You’ll need a car to reach the trailhead, but the drive is relatively easy from both the north or south coasts, and incredibly scenic.

That goes for the trail itself, too. The walk begins high in the mountains overlooking the ‘inner belly’ of Madeira, where tall, green peaks rise in the distance.

If you’re looking for a challenge or a big climb, this isn’t the walk for you. The path follows a levada and stays mostly flat throughout. It doesn’t feature the dramatic drop-offs that some other levada trails in Madeira are known for, but it is very narrow at one point and requires good balance.

Along the way, you’ll also get a good look at the forest below the levada and some lovely flowers along the slopes. If you’re lucky, you might see a few wandering chickens like I did.

Difficulty

The Levada das Rabaças hike is relatively easy, with around 294 metres of elevation gain. I barely noticed the elevation, as it’s so gradual.

The full trail is about 6 kilometres out and back, which usually takes around 2 – 2.5 hours at a relaxed pace.

Because the route that starts and ends in Encumeada, you don’t actually need to complete the entire distance. You can walk as far as you like, and then turn around. The great part about this trail is that the beginning is more scenic than the end, so even a short walk is rewarding.

Although the trail isn’t busy, it’s still easy to follow. The only thing to note is that the path becomes quite narrow in places – you’ll need to walk in single file and briefly balance along the levada wall at one point.

Fortunately, there isn’t a steep drop on the other side; it’s mostly forest and bushes rather than steep cliffs.

How to Get There

To reach the trailhead, drive to Encumeada, which is in the scenic valley between São Vicente and the south coast.

You can park along the road below Snack Bar Restaurante Boca Da Encumeada. Parking is limited, so you may need to walk a short distance to reach the trailhead, which begins near the restaurant.

If you’re planning to explore the island by road, my guide to renting a car in Madeira explains what to expect when driving in the mountains.

What to Expect on the Levada das Rabaças Hike

Important: Trails are often closed in Madeira at short notice due to rockfall or levada works. I recommend always checking the up-to-date list of PR trail closures and reading recent trail reviews on Google and AllTrails before you leave. Also pay close attention to signage on the trails.

Route Map

My Experience Hiking Levada das Rabaças

I began the hike in Encumeada and immediately realised that I had already walked the beginning of the trail before, while hiking the PR17 towards Bica de Cana.

The opening stretch is actually the most spectacular part of the walk. From here, you get some wonderful views back towards Encumeada and the surrounding valley, where there are some really big, rugged peaks.

The trail follows a dirt path alongside the levada, passing through trees and then out into an open area with large rock overhangs above the path.

Along this stretch, you get some really nice views down over the valley. After about one kilometre, you’ll come to a tunnel – where I was greeted by some friendly chickens.

This is where many hikers turn off to do the PR17, a far more challenging but spectacular trail that takes you up to Bica de Cana past several waterfalls.

If you’re feeling energetic, you can take a short detour here to see a couple of tall waterfalls viewable from Levada do Norte.

The detour adds around 30 – 50 minutes, and you may need to show a trail reservation for the PR17 (book in advance via the SIMplifica portal) because it forms part of the classified trails in Madeira. Depending on your pace, the route is clearly marked on the AllTrails map.

Otherwise, just continue straight along the Levada das Rabaças, where the trail becomes a little more shaded as it passes through forested sections with white flowers and different tree species.

You’ll get glimpses of peaks like Pico Quebrado and Pico das Furnas between the trees, assuming the clouds cooperate.

Eventually the levada disappears into a small tunnel carved into the hillside. This marks the natural end of the hike, where most people turn around and retrace their steps back to Encumeada.

Tips for the Hike

• There are no toilets along the trail, but you can use the loos at Snack Bar Restaurante Boca Da Encumeada if you buy something. I almost always buy a couple of boiled eggs before I go trekking in the area.
• Most of the hike is open to the elements, so bring adequate sun and rain protection depending on the weather.
• Because the trail is high in the mountains, cloud cover can affect the views and conditions can change quickly.
• If you’re driving back to the south coast, there is a wonderful poncha bar called Taberna da Poncha where the floors are covered in peanut shells and the walls are covered in colourful stickers and business cards. I love their alcohol-free nikita, a drink traditionally made with pineapple, beer and ice cream.

Alternatives to Levada das Rabaças

• Levada dos Maroços, Machico: A walk that’s similar in terrain and difficulty, but longer. The views are very different, but it’s an out-and-back route where you can walk as far as you like.
• Bica de Cana circuit: Another easy hike with mountain views. It’s located just above Encumeada, so not too far away. It has a bit more up and down, and you’ll walk under waterfalls, so it’s best for those who are confident on their feet.
• PR17 (O Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal): A much more challenging hike that begins partway along Levada das Rabaças. It’ll take you from Encumeada to Bica de Cana, then back along an old road.

---

I hope you found this hiking guide useful! Leave a comment below to let me know if you tried this trail, and what hike you’re planning to do next.