Levada do Castelejo Hike Guide: Uncrowded and Easy Levada Walk in Porto da Cruz
The day I discovered the Levada do Castelejo hike in Porto da Cruz was a good one. This easy levada walk takes place above the town, with views over its dramatic mountain, Penha D’Águia, and the ocean.
It’s not very well known, and the only reason I found it was because, after being based in Machico for several months, I was keen to find a new, easy hike in the local area.
The Levada do Castelejo walk is particularly nice because it passes through small rural villages above Porto da Cruz. I only came across a couple of other hikers but several honesty shops selling local produce. There’s also a small coffee bar halfway along where you can stop for a brew, which is wonderfully characterful.
In this guide, I’ll explain what to expect on the Levada do Castelejo hike, how to get there and who it suits best. It also features in my guide to the best hikes in Madeira, and I’ll include a few similar alternatives at the end of this post.
Is Levada do Castelejo Worth Doing?
Levada Do Castelejo is a lovely walk that’s worth doing if you want to avoid Madeira’s crowds. It’s located in a rural area on the island’s east coast, so you’ll need a car to reach the trailhead. However, it’s not far from Machico, so you can easily combine the walk with a swim at Machico’s sandy beach afterwards.
The scenery is surprisingly varied, too, with views of the ocean, Penha d’Águia and the surrounding Madeiran countryside.
The trail is mostly flat and easy to follow. Although the full out-and-back route I recommend is 10.8 km, you can always shorten the hike by turning around whenever you feel ready.
Difficulty
Although the length (10.8 km) can sound intimidating, the trail itself is mostly flat and doesn’t have any major climbs. The total elevation gain is 392 metres, which is very gradual.
There’s only one small set of stairs that you’ll need to climb near the halfway point to reach Bar Hercules, the local coffee bar.
Some levada walks in Madeira have scary drop-offs on one side, but not this one. It’s a well-trodden path that alternates between pavement and dirt, usually passing gardens, farmland and houses.
Because the walk is at a relatively low elevation, it doesn’t tend to get very windy or cold. Still, it’s worth bringing both rain and sun protection, as the weather can change quickly.
I’ve actually done this hike twice. The first time, I wasn’t feeling very well and only walked part of the trail. The second time, after seeing how easy the terrain was, I brought along my parents (in their late 60s) and we completed the full route. They managed just fine and especially appreciated being able to rest halfway at Bar Hercules.
How to Get There
The easiest place to park is near the football pitch at the back of Porto da Cruz, where there’s usually plenty of on-street parking. Alternatively, you can park on Caminho da Referta if you want to begin the hike at Bar Hercules.
Bar Hercules is quicker to reach from Funchal and Machico by about 10 minutes, but the opposite side gives you better views of Penha d’Águia early on and allows you to use Bar Hercules as a midway stop.
What to Expect on The Levada do Castelejo Hike
Route Map
My Experience Hiking Levada do Castelejo in Porto da Cruz
I began the hike from the back of Porto Da Cruz, next to the Levada do Castelejo marker. From the very beginning, you’re walking alongside the levada.
The concrete path heads through clusters of houses surrounded by fruit trees and the occasional small vineyard. Before long, Penha D’Águia (Eagle Rock) appears in the distance. This dramatic standalone mountain makes for very nice views.
The best views of the mountain are actually from this first section of the trail, so it’s worth taking a moment to enjoy them.
I began the hike from the back of Porto da Cruz, next to the Levada do Castelejo marker. From the very beginning, you’re walking alongside the levada.
The trail itself is very quiet. The first time I did it, I saw just one other small group of hikers. The second time, I saw absolutely no one.
Still, there are a few honesty shops set up by local residents where walkers can leave cash in exchange for fruit, veggies or bottled water. It’s a lovely reflection of how trusting the community is towards walkers passing through the area.
After the villages, the path turns from concrete to dirt and enters a small forest. The levada continues steadily through this section, although there are a few small ups and downs.
As you approach Bar Hercules, you’ll need to climb a short set of stairs up to the road. If you prefer, you can skip the coffee bar and simply retrace your steps.
For me, though, Bar Hercules is one of the highlights of the Levada do Castelejo walk. It’s a small local coffee bar with just a few tables inside and eclectic decor including model vehicles, wine and spirit bottles, and a fridge covered in magnets.
The coffee here is inexpensive by local standards, and the owners were very welcoming even if they seemed a little surprised to see a group of tourists stopping in.
My parents loved the stop here, particularly because it gave them a chance to rest halfway along the hike.
After coffee, we simply retraced our steps back to the car, and that was Levada do Castelejo done and dusted. Towards the end of the walk, it started raining, which made me glad I’d packed a rain jacket.
On the way back, we passed the cutest scene: a whole family of cats lounging outside what I assume was their home. They seemed perfectly unfazed by Madeira’s rapidly changing weather.
Tips for the Hike
- Pack plenty of water and snacks for the trail. Although I came across a couple of honesty shops, they didn’t seem permanent.
- Bring rain and sun protection, as most of this walk is out in the open, and there are only a few sheltered places.
- Carry some cash for the coffee at Bar Hercules and any produce you’d like to buy from the honest shops.
- After the hike, consider stopping by Porto da Cruz for a drink near the beach or a swim at the seasonal lido. Alternatively, Machico beach is a short drive away.
Alternatives to Levada do Castelejo
- Levada dos Maroços, Machico: Another levada walk passing through small villages on the east side of Madeira. It’s also flat and easy, and you can walk as far as you like before turning around.
- Levada dos Tornos, Funchal: If you’re staying in the capital, this levada trail is a convenient option with views over Funchal. It’s slightly shorter than Levada do Castelejo and begins near a lovely tea house.
- Eagle Rock (Penha de Águia), Porto da Cruz: If you like the scenery in Porto da Cruz, you could challenge yourself with the climb up Eagle Rock, the mountain visible from the Levada do Castelejo hike. It’s far more demanding, but the views from the top are spectacular.
