Where to Stay on the North Coast of Madeira: Best Areas and Tips
The north of Madeira feels completely different to the south. Think steep cliffs, black sands, natural volcanic pools and small towns. It’s often described as ‘wilder’, but I’d say it’s simply more rural and far more dramatic in terms of scenery.
If you’re wondering where to stay on the north coast of Madeira, you’re in the right place.
Having visited the island multiple times – and spent months here overall – I’ve explored the island widely, including the north coast, and stayed there myself. And if you’re still deciding where to base yourself more generally, you can also read my full guide on where to stay in Madeira.
There are three main places to stay on Madeira’s north coast – Porto Moniz, Seixal and São Vicente – so I’ll break down the pros and cons of each, whether they’re doable without a car, and who this part of the island is best suited to. It’s not for everyone, that’s for sure, but if you’re into hiking, dramatic landscapes and less developed areas, it can be a really rewarding place to base yourself.
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Is the North Coast a Good Place to Stay in Madeira?
The north coast of Madeira feels very different to the south. In the south, you have several large cities and neighbourhoods, all connected by a main motorway. Public transport is relatively easy, there’s more infrastructure and depending on the time of year, there’s usually more consistent sunshine.
On the north coast of Madeira, however, it’s quieter and more rural. Towns are smaller, the cliffs are steeper and greener, and waterfalls appear suddenly along the roads, which plunge in and out of tunnels. It’s far less built up, with fewer crowds and a much more dramatic feel overall.
It’s also one of the best areas on the island for scenery and hiking (if you have a car), not too far from Fanal Forest. It’s also home to several of the best natural pools in Madeira, something many tourists travel up from the south coast to see.
All that being said, the north coast isn’t a convenient base for your entire trip to Madeira. I recommend staying in the north for 1 – 2 days, ideally with a car (see my guide to renting a car in Madeira for practical tips).
That gives you plenty of time to explore places like Porto Moniz and Seixal, without feeling cut off from the rest of the island. Your remaining time can be spent in the south, where there are better bus routes and more tours
Pros of Staying on the North Coast:
- More dramatic scenery, with steep cliffs, waterfalls and black-sand beaches
- Fewer crowds, for the most part.
- Home to the Seixal and Porto Moniz natural pools.
- Good access to hiking trails, including Fanal Forest.
Cons of Basing Yourself on the North Coast:
- More cloud, rain and quick-to-change weather.
- Less sunlight, especially in the late afternoon due to the steep cliffs.
- Fewer accommodation options overall.
- A car is strongly recommended to explore properly.
Best Areas to Stay on the North Coast
There are three main places to stay on the north coast of Madeira, each very different to the next.
1. Porto Moniz (Best for Natural Pools and First-Time Visitors)
Porto Moniz is the most popular place to stay on the north coast of Madeira. It’s small, but it’s home to the largest and most popular natural pools, one paid and one free. At the Porto Moniz natural pools, you can stay there all day, relaxing and swimming. The paid pools have facilities like a restaurant, showers and changing rooms.
There’s no beach in Porto Moniz, but you don’t really need one here. The pools are the main attraction.
Beyond that, there’s a small aquarium (Aquário da Madeira) housed in an old fort above the free natural pools. I haven’t visited myself, but it features 90 local marine species and is a quick stop if you’re interested.
In terms of practicalities, Porto Moniz has a good selection of restaurants for its size, as well as a few small food shops. There are buses to São Vicente and Seixal (also on the north coast), as well as locations in the south including Calheta, Ribeira Brava and Funchal.
Porto Moniz is also one of the most walkable places on the north coast. Just be mindful when you pick your accommodation because the surrounding hillsides are steep. Staying in the main town is easier.
Recommended stays in Porto Moniz:
Aqua Natura Bay (£££)
Studios by Aqua Natura Hotels (£££)
2. Seixal (Best for Scenery and its Black-Sand Beach)
When it comes to choosing where to stay on the north coast of Madeira, I actually prefer Seixal to Porto Moniz. Sure, it’s smaller and doesn’t have any big hotels, but you get a gorgeous black-sand beach, which sprouts waterfalls after the rain, and views of steep green cliffs.
That beach (Praia do Seixal) is one of my favourites in Madeira. It’s one of the few sandy beaches on the island, and while it gets busy in summer, staying in town means that you can visit it first thing when it’s quieter. There’s even a surf school based there, and one time, I was there when an organisation was hosting a free yoga class on the sand.
And it’s not like there aren’t any natural pools in Seixal. The Seixal natural pools are smaller, quieter and feel a bit more ‘wild’.
The town is also decently sized, with a handful of places to eat, small food shops and several guesthouses and holiday rentals. You can also take the bus to Porto Moniz, although as with most of the north coast, having a car makes things much easier.
Seixal isn’t the place for big hotels or lots of choice, but if you’re after scenery, a quieter vibe and access to the beach, it’s a really nice choice.
Recommended stays in Seixal:
Casa Das Videiras (£££)
MadeiraLife (£££)
3. São Vicente (Best for a Quiet, Central Base)
São Vicente is another good base on Madeira’s north coast, especially if you want to focus on hiking. It has a couple of seafront hotels, but most of the town is set slightly inland, at the beginning of a lush valley stretching all the way to the south coast. Here, you’re a short drive from the hiking trails that begin in Encumeada.
I stayed at Granny’s Farm in São Vicente, which is just down the road from Levada Fajã do Rodrigues (PR16), and found it a great location for exploring with a car. It’s an easy drive to Porto Moniz and Seixal for the beach and natural pools, but feels removed from the tourists who visit from the south coast.
It’s just hard to get around without a car, unless you stay next to the main stops (at the seafront) and in the town centre. Roads can be steep in the valley, so it’s worth bearing in mind when you’re booking accommodation.
It’s not totally out of the question to explore the south coast from São Vicente, too. You can drive to Ribeira Brava in no time – there are lots of nice traditional poncha bars along the route, too.
Recommended stays in Seixal:
Granny’s Farm (£££) – I stayed here!
Casa Da Piedade (£££)
Where to Stay on the North Coast for Hiking
To go hiking on the north coast, you’ll need a car. Therefore, you can base yourself pretty much anywhere, although one of my favourite spots is São Vicente due to its proximity to Encumeada.
A handful of trails begin from Encumeada above the valley of São Vicente, including the Levada das Rabaças hike and Pinaculo e Folhadal (PR17). These are some of the best hikes in Madeira, hands down.
Other hiking trails on the north coast of Madeira include the Poço das Pulgas waterfall hike, which begins at the back of Boa Ventura, and Levada Fajã do Rodrigues (PR16) from São Vicente.
The north coast is also a short drive from the Fanal Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a couple of popular levada walks. It’s also a reasonable drive to hikes in and around Arco de Sao Jorge (northeast Madeira) or, if you’re staying in Porto Moniz, the hikes on the west of Madeira.
Can You Stay on the North Coast Without a Car?
If you want to stay on Madeira’s north coast, it’s much easier with a car. Public transport here is more limited; routes are less frequent and don’t cover the more rural or hillside areas.
There are connections between the main towns (Porto Moniz, São Vicente and Seixal) but once you move away from the centres, getting around is more difficult. Many guesthouses and rentals are on the hillsides, so these definitely require a car.
Even in Porto Moniz, options can be restrictive. For example, the last bus back towards the south coast usually leaves relatively early in the afternoon, which limits how flexible your days can be without a car.
Tours are an alternative, but there are fewer options on the north coast compared to Funchal and the south. This makes it harder to rely on them day-to-day.
If you’re considering renting a car, I’ve put together a guide to renting a car in Madeira, as well as a full post on getting around Madeira, which covers buses, taxis and other options in more detail.
North Coast vs South Coast: Which Is Better?
There are a few things to consider when you’re deciding between staying on the north or south coast of Madeira:
- Weather: The north coast is generally cooler and wetter. typically wetter and colder. The steep cliffs block a lot of the sunlight, so by mid to late afternoon many areas are already in the shade. Clouds also tend to build up here more quickly than on the south coast.
- Public transport: The bus network is much better on the south coast. If you’re visiting Madeira without a car, the north coast is much more challenging.
- Atmosphere: The north is more rural, with smaller towns and fewer hotels. It feels quieter and more local overall. That said, places like Porto Moniz get busy with day-trippers from the south, especially in summer, when parking becomes limited and tour buses arrive at the natural pools.
How Many Nights Should You Stay on the North Coast?
One nice way to see Madeira is to split your time between the north and south coast. Around 1 – 2 nights on the north coast is more than enough for most tourists.
You can see the natural pools and Seixal beach in one day with a car. Within two days, you can fit in a walk.
The north coast is popular with people staying longer on the island, including digital nomads in Madeira who want to go surfing or get away from the big tourist crowds in the south.
