Madeira Without A Car: The Ultimate Car-Free Itinerary by Bus and Transfers

Exploring Madeira without a car could be your ticket to a smoother, stress-free trip.

Whether you don’t drive or simply want to dodge the chaos of navigating unfamiliar roads, my car-free itinerary will steer you in the right direction.

The first time I visited Madeira, I was nervous about the idea of driving in a new country. Therefore, I planned a one-week car-free Madeira itinerary (with just one day of car rental at the very end).

Now, as I prepare for my fourth trip, I still continue to explore Madeira without a car, making the most of buses, tours and taxis whenever I can.

In this post, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know to explore Madeira without a car, including a detailed 5- and 7-day itinerary.

Visiting Madeira to go hiking? You’ll definitely want to check out my detailed guide to hiking in Madeira without a car, where I explain how to do 10 of the island’s best hikes without a car.

Disclosure: This post may include affiliate links. If you decide to click through and make a qualifying purchase, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you – thanks for your support.

Is it Possible to Get Around Madeira Without a Car?

If you’re not comfortable or able to drive abroad, exploring Madeira without a car isn’t just doable. It’s likely to be less stressful and more affordable than renting a car.

As I explain in my full guide to getting around Madeira, driving is generally the best way to get around the island.

However, the steep mountain roads and fast highways can be intimidating.

Local road rules and driving on the right side of the road can also be challenging for those who aren’t experienced in driving in Madeira.

If you relate to any of the above, I’m here to reassure you that you can still visit Madeira without a car by using buses, tours and taxis – and I’ll explain how.

Reasons Why You Might Want to Explore Madeira Without a Car

There are plenty of good reasons to skip renting a car, and it’s not just about confidence behind the wheel. Going car-free can also shave money off your budget for Madeira.

1. Rental, petrol and insurance costs can quickly add up to more than the price of a few well-chosen tours.
2. It may be less stressful than navigating unfamiliar roads and limited parking, especially in peak season.
3. You can sit back and enjoy the ride. Joining a tour hands over the reins to experienced local experts. Buses also follow a dependable route (mostly – this is Madeira, after all).

The Limitations of Visiting Madeira Without a Car

That being said, visiting Madeira without a car does require some compromises:

1. Limited accommodation options. If you’re relying on public transport and tours, it’s best to stay in Funchal or Caniço.
2. Bus travel can be slow and inconvenient. The schedules are often limited, and making multiple stops can eat into your time.
3. It’s harder to get off the beaten track. Some destinations are only accessible by car; bus and tour routes tend to focus on the most popular attractions.
4. There’s less freedom in following a fixed tour itinerary.
5. Tours are priced per person, so it may be more cost-effective to rent a car if you have a large group.

Where to Stay in Madeira If You’re Not Hiring a Car

If you’re not planning to rent a car in Madeira, where you stay is arguably the single most important decision you’ll make.

As I explain in my detailed guide to the best places to stay in Madeira without a car, most tours only provide hotel pick-up in Funchal. Therefore, if you stay elsewhere, you will need to take an early-morning bus or taxi to the city.

1. Funchal

Funchal is Madeira’s capital city and the most well-connected destination on the island.

You’ll have no trouble getting hotel pick-up for tours. There are also great bus connections to cities and towns on the south or north coast, as well as the Nun’s Valley (Curral das Freiras).

Accommodation in Funchal can be pricey, especially in the Old Town area. However, the convenience outweighs the cost if you’re not driving.

Best places to stay in Funchal without a car

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2. Caniço

If you’re looking for a quieter and budget-friendly alternative, Caniço is a good option. Located east of Funchal, it has regular (30-minute) bus connections to the city.

The area around Reis Magos Beach is a popular place to stay. It’s also one of my favourite swimming spots on the island.

Best places to stay in Caniço without a car

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3. Machico

Machico is not quite as convenient as Funchal or Caniço for tours. However, if you only want to explore the island by bus or on foot, it’s decent.

I particularly like Machico because it has a sandy beach and direct access to the hiking trail to Pico do Facho.

There are also some relaxing levada walks from the city, as I explain in my guide to the best things to do in Machico.

Best places to stay in Machico without a car

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1-Week Itinerary for Exploring Madeira Without a Car

If you’re exploring Madeira without a car, it’s always best to have a plan.

Make sure to check ahead for public holidays and festivals, as these can disrupt public transport. On public holidays, buses usually follow the Sunday timetable.

☀️ Day 1: Explore Funchal

Highlights: Orientation, coffee, food and sightseeing.

On your first day in Madeira without a car, it’s always nice to have an ‘orientation’ day.

Easing into your trip with some good food, sightseeing and a stroll along the promenade is often the best way to go.

If you’re urgently in need of coffee after your flight, you might want to check out my favourite coffee shop in Funchal, Maia Coffee Shop.

From there, take a stroll down Funchal promenade and pick and choose from the following locations, which I have plotted out on a map for your convenience:

For the history fans…

⛪ Historic sites:

• Funchal Cathedral: 15th-century building in the centre of Funchal.
• Fortaleza de São João Baptista do Pico: Hilltop castle with good views –requires an uphill walk.
• Forte de São Tiago: Yellow 17th-century fort used to defend Funchal from pirate attacks.

️ Museums:

• Madeira Story Centre: local history museum
• Sacred Art Museum of Funchal
• Madeira Photography Museum
• CR7 Museum about Cristiano Ronaldo

For dinner or drinks…

Dinner

• O Visconde: Delicious espatada, tucked down a cobbled alley.
• Barreirinha Bar Café: Portuguese staples at a popular seafront hangout.
• Parque de Santa Catarina: Good picnic location with views over the city.

Drinks:

• Panorama Terrace Bar: Rooftop bar near the promenade.
• Rei da Poncha: Try the island’s iconic alcoholic drink.
• Three House: Posh rooftop restaurant and bar.

Panorama Terrace Bar

☀️ Day 2: North coast natural pools

Highlights: Volcanic pools and north coast views.

On day two, it’s time to focus on the north coast of Madeira, which is perhaps the island’s most dramatic stretch of coastline.

Among it are three of the best Madeira natural pools, formed by old volcanic lava flows.

1. Porto Moniz: two gorgeous natural pools

Full bus timetable: No. 139

Important details: How to catch the bus to Porto Moniz!

1. Take the earliest bus from the Funchal Rodoeste bus stop at 7.35 am.
2. Arrive in Porto Moniz at 10.45 am.
3. Make it back to the bus stop for the 12.10 pm bus to Seixal (Monday to Friday only!).

With two volcanic pools to its name, Porto Moniz is definitely a worthy addition to your car-free Madeira itinerary.

The small town can get quite busy during the summer, but I’d say it’s still worth visiting the Porto Moniz natural pools (paid) and the Cachalote natural pools (free) for a couple of hours.

Madeira’s volcanic pools are an iconic tourist attraction, and Porto Moniz has the most famous (and perhaps most scenic) ones.

The main pool complex has a good selection of facilities, including a restaurant and changing rooms, so you can easily spend a couple of hours there before moving on.

2. Seixal: natural pools and a black-sand beach

Full bus timetable: No. 139

Important details: How to catch the bus to Seixal (and back home)!

1. Take the 12.10 pm bus from Porto Moniz to Seixal (Monday to Friday only) from the same bus stop you arrived to.
2. Take the final return bus from Seixal to Funchal at 2.25 pm (Monday to Saturday only).

After visiting Porto Moniz, you can take the bus to Seixal, also on the north coast.

I actually prefer Seixal to Porto Moniz, mainly because it’s less busy overall, but also because it has a spectacular black-sand beach with views of waterfalls and steep, green cliffs.

Protected by a harbour wall, the beach is one of the nicest places to swim in Madeira.

Just like Porto Moniz, Seixal has a volcanic pool.

The Seixal natural pools have a ‘wilder’ feel, set at the bottom of a cliff with a natural rock arch and a small local snack bar.

There are plenty of restaurants in Seixal where you can grab a bite to eat before catching the return bus to Funchal.

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️ Should you take the bus or a tour to the north coast?

If you’re okay with an early start and finish and visiting from Monday to Friday, then you can easily use the instructions I have provided above to visit Porto Moniz and Seixal by bus.

However, if you’d prefer to take your time and don’t mind paying for convenience, tours are a good alternative.

Bus	️ Tours
✅ Decide your own itinerary.	✅ Convenient, with less transit time.
✅ Budget-friendly.	✅ All the details are handled for you.
❌ Early start and early finish.	❌ Expensive, especially for groups.
❌ Long transit time.	❌ You must follow a fixed itinerary.

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☀️Day 3: Pico do Areiro to Pico Ruivo

Highlights: Hiking the island’s tallest mountains; incredible views.

A trip to Madeira wouldn’t be complete without at least one hike – and why not make it the island’s most famous hike, the PR1 (Pico do Areiro to Pico Ruivo)?

This point-to-point, 11-kilometre hike connects the island’s two tallest mountains, Pico do Areiro (1,818 metres) and Pico Ruivo (1,861 metres).

It passes over and through some of the island’s most dramatic scenery. You can expect to see steep, sharp peaks, clouded green slopes, rock arches and narrow ridgeways.

Due to its precarious position in the centre of the island, the PR1 is prone to full or partial closures throughout the year due to landslides, forest fires and other variables.

Therefore, it’s important to check the up-to-date regional government’s list of trail closures in Madeira in Portuguese or English.

You can’t take the bus to Pico do Areiro (the start point), so that leaves you with two ways to do the PR1 without a car:

1. Self-guided hike transfer – the best option.

Self-guided PR1 hiking tours will drop you at the trailhead at Pico do Ariero.

Once you have hiked to the pick-up point at Achada do Teixeira (2.6 kilometres from the Pico do Ruivo summit), they will drop you back at your hotel. You will hike independently, without a guide.

Check the availability for a morning or sunrise self-guided PR1 hike in advance – they are popular.

2. Hiking tour – best for less-experienced hikers.

A standard PR1 hiking tour is a good alternative for less-confident hikers. Instead of hiking independently, you will be accompanied by an experienced guide.

Tours always include hotel pick-up and drop-off. Again, you’ll want to check availability for the guided PR1 hike well in advance.

☀️ Day 4: Monte Palace and Doca do Cavacas (Funchal natural pools)

Highlights: Cable car, Monte Palace, natural pools and sunset views.

Following day three’s strenuous but rewarding hiking activities, it only makes sense that day four should involve plenty of relaxation and less time on your feet.

1. Take the cable car to Monte Palace

That’s why I suggest you begin the morning by taking the cable car to Monte Palace from the Funchal cable car station.

You can book your ticket (round trip: €20) upon arrival or on the Madeira Cable Car website. Soon, you will be soaring high above the city’s terracotta tiles, before you reach the sloping wooded valley before Monte.

The cable car will drop you at Monte station, where you can then visit Monte Palace, an estate from the 18th century with a huge, multi-level garden with over 100,000 species, lakes, sculptures and a tile collection from the 15th to 20th centuries.

The only way to visit Monte Palace is to book your ticket (€15 for adults) on the Monte Palace website in advance.

Now, you may have seen Madeira’s fast-paced toboggan rides on your social media feed too. If not, you should know that the Monte Sledges are an iconic activity in Madeira.

Tourists can take a fast downhill ride in wicker-wood sledges, formerly used by locals who needed a quick way to reach the city from Monte in the 19th century.

The Monte Sledges are pushed by two ‘carreiros’ (drivers), dressed in straw hats and boots with durable rubber soles.

After you have done the thrilling sledge route (two kilometres in length), you will wind up in Livramento, halfway down the mountain.

Therefore, you either have to walk 20-30 minutes (or take a bus or taxi) back to Funchal Old Town, or grab a taxi back to Monte to complete your cable car return trip.

From Monte, you can also take cable car from Teleférico do Jardim Botânico to the Madeira Botanical Garden. Established in 1960, Madeira Botanical Garden has over 2,000 exotic plants.

2. Late afternoon and sunset at Doca do Cavacas

How to reach the Funchal natural pools by bus or taxi

Bus: Take a 10-minute bus (no. 1 or 2) from opposite the McDonald’s on Avenue do Mar.

Taxi: You can book a taxi on the Bolt app (€8 – 15).

Now, as long as you haven’t been sidetracked by the botanical gardens or Monte sledge rides, you should have plenty of time left over to visit Funchal’s very own volcanic pools.

Located in Lido (accessible by bus or Bolt taxi), the Doca do Cavacas Funchal natural pools have been used for bathing by locals since the late 1970s.

If you get there in the afternoon, you should have plenty of time to sunbathe and take in the views of Cape Girão, the highest cape in Europe.

It doesn’t matter if you’re a little bit later either, as the Funchal pools are home to the Doca do Cavacas restaurant and bar, where you can grab a cocktail and settle in for the sunset views.

You’re also right next to the Lido promenade, where you can walk along to other beachfront bars through a small tunnel.

Doca do Cavacas is open from 10am to 8pm on weekdays and weekends during summer.

If the conditions are rough at high tide, the pools may be shut for safety reasons. You can check the Praia Formosa tide timetables on Tideschart in advance.

☀️ Day 5: Nun’s Valley (Curral das Freiras)

Highlights: Hiking, mountain scenery, sightseeing and food.

Bus timetable: Horarios do Funchal no. 81 (select interurban routes)

Important details: How to catch the bus to the Nun’s Valley!

1. Take the no. 81 bus (for Curral das Freiras) from the bus station next to the Funchal Cable Car.
2. To reach the Eira do Serrado viewpoint, you need to look at the buses marked b) or e):
   • Weekdays: 9am, 10am and 11am.
   • Saturday: 8.45am, 10am and 11.30am.
   • Sunday and holidays: 6.40am and 11.40am.
3. Walk downhill (via the trail) or catch the bus to the Nun’s Valley (Curral das Freiras stop) – buses arrive at Eira do Serrado around 30-40 minutes after departing Funchal.
4. Catch your return bus to Funchal from the Nun’s Valley bus stop in the afternoon.
   • The timetable displays the bus times from Lombo Chão. It takes the bus 10 minutes to reach. the Nun’s Valley from Lombo Chão, so you can expect it around 10 minutes later than the following times:
     • Weekdays: Regular intervals from 12.25pm to 10.45pm.
     • Saturdays: Infrequent intervals from 12pm to 8.45pm.
     • Sundays and public holidays: Infrequent intervals from 1pm to 8.35pm.

The Nun’s Valley (Curral das Freiras) is one of the easiest places to visit in Madeira without a car.

Located at the centre of the island, it’s connected to Funchal by a direct bus, and has some incredibly spectacular scenery.

What’s with the name? The valley was founded by a group of nuns, who fled the coast to find safety away from pirates.

Over the years, the village has expanded and now has restaurants, a viewpoint, churches, a small museum and a graveyard.

If you’re exploring without a car, like me, you can begin by taking the bus (for around 40 minutes) to the Eira Do Serrado viewpoint.

Eira Do Serrado has a bird’s-eye view of the valley, along with a restaurant and souvenir shop.

I had a nice little coffee on the terrace, where you get one of the best views of the valley – the coffee may be pricey, but the view is very much worth it.

From the viewpoint, you have two options. The first is to take the same bus down to Curral das Freiras, which only takes 10-15 minutes.

The second is to turn left out of the restaurant and take the zig-zag path down the side of the mountain.

It’s an easy, wide path with spectacular views and heads completely downhill for only around 30-40 minutes.

At the bottom, when you reach the main road, turn right and you’ll come up at the bus stop for the buses back to Funchal.

This road has a few restaurants. I ate at Sabores do Curral, a lovely little restaurant with a terrace overlooking the mountains. The fish was spectacular.

Afterwards, you can wander around the village to see some of the main sites.

There is a church and graveyard, a small library and a Chestnut Museum dedicated to the village’s popular ingredient.

If you’re feeling particularly intrepid, you can hike back up the zig-zag to the viewpoint before taking the bus back to Funchal. However, if your belly is full of fish and potatoes, simply catch the return bus.

☀️ Day 6: São Lourenço (PR8) hike

Highlights: One of Madeira’s most popular trails; sunrise views; coastal scenery.

Vereda da Ponta São Lourenço (PR8) is one of the most popular trails in Madeira.

Located at the easternmost point of the island, this dramatic coastal stretch looks almost desert-like with its red, brown and orange hues.

The PR8 trail takes 2-4 hours to complete, and is an almost four-mile round trip.

It’s best done at sunrise, firstly to beat the late-morning crowds, and secondly to make the most of the sunrise over the ocean.

Looking back towards Madeira, you can see the fishing town of Caniçal, and on clear days, Machico Bay, the airport and Santa Cruz.

I did this hike at sunrise, using a friend’s car, but it’s very easy to get to without a car.

Just like the PR1 trail, the PR8 hike is well-served by self-guided hiking transfers and generic tours.

The self-guided PR8 hike (available at 6am for sunrise, or 8.30am and 10am for the morning) will drop you off at the trailhead, leave you to your own devices, and pick you up several hours later to drop you back to your hotel.

If you want to hike with a guide, that’s possible too.

☀️ Day 7: Câmara de Lobos or Machico

Highlights: A typical Madeiran fishing village or beach time.

How better to end your Madeira trip than with some time by the water?

You’re winding down and perhaps starting to make your goodbyes to the island – so it’s also a nice opportunity to slow down the pace.

1. Câmara de Lobos

Important details: How to catch the bus to Câmara de Lobos!

Take Rodoeste no. 137 (no.137 timetable here) from Funchal promenade to the bus stop in Câmara de Lobos. There are several Rodoeste buses that stop in Câmara de Lobos.

Câmara de Lobos is nice and is easy to reach from Funchal. After the half-hour bus ride, it’s just a short walk to the promenade.

With Cape Girão in the background, the terracotta roofs and small bay with bobbing fishing boats are spectacular to see.

Câmara de Lobos is particularly famous for its sardines and fiestas. The streets are decorated with street art, too, making it a nice place to wander around.

On sunny days, you might want to join the people sunbathing on the harbourside. Praia de Vigário, a pebble beach, is on the west side of the village.

On the east side, a short walk along the promenade will get you to the outdoor lido, Complexo Balnear das Salinas, which is typically open only in summer.

The Henriques & Henriques winery sits at the top of Câmara de Lobos, too, should you fancy tasting some local wines.

2. Machico

Important details: How to catch the bus to Machico!

Take the SAM no.113 (no.113 schedule here – please also check in-person at the bus stop) from the SAM bus stop in Funchal. Return buses depart from Machico bus terminal next to the Continente.

Machico is one of my favourite places in Madeira and easy to reach by bus from Funchal within an hour (via SAM line 113).

Machico has one of the very few sandy beaches on the island (the white sand is imported from Mexico) and plenty of adorable restaurants and coffee shops (Secreta, O Galã, and Portas Verdes are the first that spring to mind.)

One of the best things to do in Machico is climbing Pico do Facho, a small 517-metre mountain that with incredible views back down the town.

If you’re not keen for a big hike, there’s a smaller ‘zig-zag’ hike (taking 20 – 30 minutes) to Miradouro Francisco Álvares de Nóbrega.

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I hope you found my guide to exploring Madeira without a car helpful!

Let me know how your trip goes, and feel free to share your own car-free tips with my readers in the comment section below.

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